Four questions to ask a prospective dog trainer
because dog training is an unregulated profession, It’s up to you to do your Consumer research.
But what should you ask a prospective trainer? Find out, below.
When you’re looking for a plumber or electrician, most of us will ask for recommendations from friends and neighbors as well as ensure that the professional is up-to-date on licensing in our state.
And because plumbers and electricians are licensed professionals, you can be fairly confident that whoever you hire won’t end up flooding your kitchen or burning down your house. They’ve met guidelines for education and professional expertise set by a state board that is (presumably) run by experienced members of the profession.
No such rules apply when looking for a dog trainer, because dog training is an unlicensed and unregulated profession.
It’s true — anyone can grab a bag of treats, a shock collar, watch a dog training TV show (or do none of these) and set themselves up in business as a dog trainer.
Asking these four questions gets to the heart of your trainer’s understanding of behavior modification (which is what dog training is) and how they propose to work with your dog. Find out what to ask and what you’ll want to hear before handing over your beloved pup — and hard-earned money — to a trainer.
And yes! I encourage you to ask me these questions when we talk!
What to ask a prospective trainer
1. How will you train my dog?
2. What tools will you use?
3. What happens when she gets it right?
4. What happens when she gets it wrong?
What you’ll want to hear
1. We’ll use an incremental training plan and work at your dog’s pace to reach the goal behavior.
Why? A trainer with credentials and education knows that behavior can be modified only when you understand the end goal — say, walking on leash without pulling — and use a plan to incrementally build up that behavior with what we call “successive approximations.” These are easier versions of a behavior that over time build up to the end goal. In the case of a leash puller, for instance, we’d begin inside, with no distractions, and a steady stream of food rewards to teach your dog that being right next to you is way more exciting than pulling ahead.
2. We’ll use food to motivate your dog. We may use a front-clip harness or a head halter to help her walk without pulling.
Why? Credentialed trainers know that all dogs are motivated by food. If the dog wasn’t, they wouldn’t have made it to the training session. They also know that countless peer-reviewed research studies show that dogs who are trained with food rewards learn better, faster, and without the potential negative side effects that can happen with harsh, aversive training methods. A properly-fitting and well-trained head halter and front-clip harness are not inherently aversive tools, but the dog may need to learn to enjoy wearing them using, of course, a training plan.
3. When your dog gets it right, she gets a reward and we move on.
Why? We reward behaviors that we want the dog to do more of: sitting, looking at us, resting quietly on their place, leaving stuff alone, and so on. The reward lets the dog know she did the right thing.
Note: If your dog has fearful or reactive behavior, we also use food rewards to work with your dog, but employ a different type of training plan that relies on classical counter-conditioning. But yes, we still use an incremental training plan.
4. When she gets it wrong, we drop to an easier step in the training plan until that’s solid, and then move ahead again.
Why? Punishing or chastising a dog for something they haven’t learned well is pointless and a waste of time. Training is like learning a musical instrument: You (hopefully) wouldn’t yell at a child who just learned piano scales because they couldn’t immediately play a classical music piece. You’d keep practicing and coaching the child until she’d mastered increasingly complex playing and was ready to tackle Bach.
Bonus question: Where did you study dog training?
Why? The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (veterinarians with training and expertise in behavior), recommends you look for a trainer who has attained one or more educational credentials from:
The Karen Pryor Academy (KPA)
Jean Donaldson’s Academy for Dog Trainers (CTC)
Victoria Stillwell’s Academy for Dog Training
Trainers with a credential from these dog academies understand modern training methods and have expertise in modifying behavior from simple everyday manners to complex fearful and aggressive behavior issues.
I meet clients regularly online (with Petey always snoozing behind me) to discuss their dog and my training methods.
Any trainer should be 100% transparent about how they’ll work with you and your dog.
Cup of tea always optional.
🚨 Two training claims to watch out for
1. Different dog breeds need different training methods.
Why? All animals, including humans, learn the same two ways: That our behavior produces consequences that fulfill our survival needs, and by observing patterns that predict an outcome that works for us (or doesn’t). It’s true that different dog species as well as individual dogs may be motivated more by toys and play than by food. That doesn’t change the fact that the dog still learns the same way as every other sentient being on the planet.
2. Food rewards are bribes.
Why? No living being does something for nothing. We use the most important thing in your dog’s life — food, a primary need for survival — to shape and reward behaviors, and also to teach your dog that things they find scary instead predict wonderful snacks.
You’re the consumer, so ask questions
Check websites, looking for photos or videos of dogs being trained. Can’t find any credentials listed? No clear discussion of training methods? Look elsewhere.
No credentialed pro nearby? Train online
If there’s no trainer from these recommended programs near you, find one who does online training. For instance, the Academy for Dog Trainers has a list of graduates who do online training.